St Mary, Bury St Edmunds

Located just 150 yards south of the Cathedral of St James, St Mary's was enlarged to its present size in the 14th and 15th centuries. One of the largest and impressive parish churches in England, it is a match for the Cathedral in both size and architecture. It is also the burial place of Mary Tudor, sister of Henry VIII. 

Originally one of three churches in the Abbey precinct, the oldest surviving part of St Mary's is the sturdy and rather rustic flint tower. This dates from the 14th century, as does the chancel; the nave and aisles were rebuilt in 15th century. From the outside, the most impressive view is from Honey Hill, where the 14-bay south aisle fronts the street, all the more imposing for the uniformity of its windows. On the north side is the small but exquisite north porch, commemorating John Notyngham and his wife. Built in 1440, this has an unusual wheel vault, with a pendant at its hub.

That said, nothing really prepares you for the interior: the nave has ten bays of uniform and very tall  arches, leading the eye dramatically to the chancel arch. The clerestory has a pair of windows to each arch - 40 in all. The renowned nave roof is worth a visit in its own right: hammer beams alternate with arched braces, with angels on the hammer beams, and two rows of angels on the wall plate. The spandrels of the braces are decorated with a menagerie of animals, real and imaginary; the wall posts have kings, saints, and prophets. Before entering the chancel, look back: the west window - the largest in a parish church - has glass given in thanksgiving for a successful harvest in 1854.

The 14th century chancel is a complete contrast: a more intimate space flanked by side chapels, this nevertheless has its own impressively decorated roof, with gold highlighting panels and bosses against a vivid turquoise background. The bosses have more animal scenes, including the familiar allegory of a fox preaching to geese. The church contains some interesting tombs: tucked away in the sanctuary is that of Mary Tudor (d. 1533), Queen of France and later Duchess of Sussex, comprising just a simple carved floor slab. Flanking the chancel are two impressive tomb chests with effigies, on the north side to Sir William Carew (d. 1501) and his wife; and on the south to Sir Robert Drury (d. 1536), Privy Counsellor to Henry VII. In the south nave aisle is the tomb of John Barat - a real rarity, featuring his cadaver in place of the usual effigy. Above, the roof has four panels decorated with his family motto "Grace me governe", picked out in lozenge patterns incorporating small mirrors, giving the impression of stars.

The church is in the evangelical tradition of the Church of England, but retains traditional services (including Evensong) with a choir, alongside more contemporary and informal worship, and a busy calendar of events and groups. On our visit, we received a wonderful welcome, including a lunch courtesy of their weekly "Open Kitchen".

St Mary, Honey Hill, Bury St Edmunds, IP33 1RT