Metropolitan Cathedral of St David, Cardiff

St David's the newer and smaller of Cardiff's two cathedrals but, unlike the ancient foundation of Llandaff, several miles to the north-west, St David's is at the heart of the modern city.

History

The growth of Cardiff during the industrial revolution saw a growing mission by the Roman Catholic Church to the population of this burgeoning city. From 1839 a support fund for a new church was developed, augmented by fund-raising in Ireland, and the first church was consecrated on a site in David Street in 1842. It was named after the Principality's patron saint at the request of Lady Catherine Eyre of Bath, a major benefactress.

By the end of the century, however, it was becoming too small for the growing congregation, and the present building was erected in Charles Street. It was opened in 1887 to designs by the architectural firm Pugin & Pugin. It contained elaborate furnishings in the Neo-Gothic style, with the High Altar and Reredos alone costing the then substantial sum of £1,000. In 1915, Cardiff was designated an Archdiocese and in 1920 St David's was designated the cathedral.

However, the cathedral was destroyed during an enemy air-raid on 3rd March 1941. Rebuilding began in 1953, and St David's reopened in 1959, albeit with furnishings in a more modern style.

The Church

The church is designed in a restrained, Decorated Gothic style. The exterior is executed in rock-faced Pennant stone with red sandstone ashlar dressings. The interior consists of a single large nave, with a large chancel arch leading into a small sanctuary, and a large stone west gallery supported on two substantial piers. The walls have arches to each bay, some housing confessional boxes, others small chapels. The most interesting decoration is the stained glass, some of which was saved from the original building.

Charles Street, Cardiff, Wales CF10 2SF

Saint John, Cardiff

St John’s is the principal church in Cardiff City Centre, and in many ways its mother church, since its Cathedral is several miles out in the suburb of Llandaff. It is the oldest building in the city centre (apart from parts of the castle), and the only significant survivor from the pre-industrial mediaeval town.

History

The precise origins of the church are unclear, except that it is of Norman foundation, established as a chapel of ease to the parish church of St Mary’s, itself built shortly after the Norman Conquest. It is first mentioned in documents dated 1180. The chapel served the needs of the nearby castle, with which it has retained close links over the centuries.

The church was substantially rebuilt in the mid -15th Century, following severe damage done during Owain Glyndwr’s sack of the city in 1404. This included a new nave in the Perpendicular style, with a wooden barrel-vaulted roof, completed in 1443, and a handsome 130ft tower, in the ‘Somerset’ Perpendicular style, completed in 1473 and paid for by Lady Isabella Neville, daughter of Warwick ‘the Kingmaker’.

The church became the parish church in 1607 when St Mary’s was destroyed in a disastrous flood. It was also involved in the religious debates of the 17th century, when it briefly became a centre of non-Conformity during the Puritan revolution. As Cardiff grew during the 19th century, it became clear that it needed to be expanded, with the addition of new north and south aisles and an enlarged chancel, between 1886 and 1897.

The church

The tower dominates the view along Church Street from St Mary’s Street to the west, where its handsome proportions and elaborate crown, with four corner lanterns, can be fully appreciated. It rises in three stages from the west door, with an attractive perpendicular Gothic window dominating the lower stage, and tall lancet bell openings with delicate tracery above. The crown, with its lanterns, is regarded as one of the best in the UK, with more pinnacles than any other save for that of Wrexham. It is a pity that the buildings of modern Cardiff don’t permit a better view. The tower is opened for visitors on selected days through the year - see website for details.

After this magnificence, the interior is, on first sight, rather plain: the 15th century arcades are spacious and lofty, in typical Perpendicular style, but the lack of a clerestory makes it a little gloomy. The 19th century arcades add volume, but little of interest, and the eye is drawn instead to the spacious Chancel, separated by an impressive Victorian wooden screen. There are chapels to the north and south, and a rather plain modern extension at the south-west end of the south aisle, added in 1975 to provide a vestry.

Most of the interest lies in its furnishings, the best of which are found in the north Lady Chapel, also known as the Herbert Chapel. This is screened on two sides by elegant late Perpendicular wooden screens, of late 15th or early 16th century date, and in-filled with later panels from the reigns of Queen Mary and Charles I. These contain medallions with grotesque figures.

Dominating the north wall of the Chapel is the church’s finest monument, to the brothers Sir William Herbert (c.1548-1609), keeper of Cardiff Castle, and Sir John Herbert (c.1550-1617), Secretary to both Elizabeth I and James I. Unusually, the two men lie side by side, Sir William in his armour and Sir John in a long lawyer’s gown. Their ages on the tomb are somewhat inflated: Sir John’s age is given as 84, and that of Sir William as 76.

On the south side, is a Chapel dedicated to the Order of St John. The chapel is fronted by a fine carved Jacobean bench, acting as a communion rail, and has an impressive reredos by Comper, a memorial to Lord Kitchener. At the west end, the first floor interior of the tower is worth a look for its impressive collection of 17th-19th century memorial plaques.

The Chancel is notable for the two arches on the south side which, dating from 1213-1239, are the oldest identifiable part of the present church. The Great East window contains fine glass by Comper, depicting the risen Christ, flanked by the Virgin and Saints. The principal other feature is the reredos (1892), designed by the architect John Pritchard, which contains an unusual central panel of carved and gilded figures by Sir William Goscombe John. These represent Old and New Testament figures, chosen to reflect the growth of the sacramental tradition.

The church really is at the centre of the City, but seems overlooked by the majority of people rushing past. Instead, it offers a haven of peace and tranquillity and, during services, some excellent church music. Its tea-shop (Weds-Sat) also offers more earthly refreshment for shoppers in the form of tea, coffee, sandwiches and home-made cakes.

St. John Street, Cardiff CF10 1GJ

Llandaff Cathedral / Eglwys Gadeiriol Llandaf, Cardiff

Tucked away in the suburbs of western Cardiff is the ancient cathedral seat of Llandaff. Easily overlooked, it’s a charming, quiet spot, with a village-like feel and, unlike many cathedral towns, is not over-run by tourists. The cathedral itself is smaller and more intimate than many of its English equivalents.

Until the late 19th century a small town in its own right, Llandaff is one of the oldest Christian sites in the UK, with a colony founded by St Dyfrig in the 6th Century. His leadership was followed by St Teilo and St Euddogwy (great names, these Welsh saints..) and these three now form part of the Cathedral’s dedication, along with St Peter and St Paul.

The present building was begun in 1107 after the Norman conquest, to replace the earlier church, of which only a stone cross survives. The Norman church was itself rebuilt in the early 13th century, and the bulk of the fabric dates from this period: the Nave and West Front were completed by 1220. The Lady Chapel was added in 1287 and the outer aisle walls rebuilt, and the square Jasper Tower completed in 1485. After the reformation, the church fell into ruin as the income from pilgrims to the shrine of St Teilo dried up. After a partial (and rather unsympathetic) restoration in the 18th century, a more complete restoration in the 19th century delivered much of what can be seen to-day, as well as its pre-Raphaelite furnishings, most notably a triptych by D G Rossetti and a ceramic reredos by Burne-Jones.

Unfortunately, the cathedral was brought to almost complete ruin again in January 1941, when it received a direct hit during a bombing raid. The subsequent rebuilding largely restored the earlier fabric, but with one spectacular addition: a new organ case built on a concrete arch in the centre of the nave, surmounted with a huge aluminium statue of ‘Christ in Majesty’ by Sir Jacob Epstein. Love it or hate it (and I think I’m in the latter camp), it now defines the interior cathedral space, and it certainly unique and dramatic. And the effect when it is played is equally astonishing - like many cathedrals, Llandaff is best experienced with music, and there is an active programme both of sung services and concerts - see web-site for details.

Although there is a small shop, there are no catering facilities, but there are a few cafes in the surrounding streets: why not treat yourself to a traditional Welsh tea after a visit?

Cathedral Green, Cardiff CF5 2YF www.llandaffcathedral.org.uk