Sunday 13 February 2022

Holy Trinity, Llandow

The village of Llandow sits tucked away at the end of a dead end road, three miles south west of Cowbridge, past the World War II airfield for which it was once well known. Dedicated to the Holy Trinity, the church is typical of those in the Vale of Glamorgan - small and robust, with a distinctive saddle-back west tower.

Although some sources suggest the church may be of pre-conquest date, the consensus seems to be 12th Century, and the core of the church seems thoroughly Norman, judging from the round-arched south door, stout tub font, and the diminutive chancel arch, which has the merest hint of a pointed arch resting on simple imposts. Unusually, the east wall of the nave has a large, chamfered blind arch framing the chancel arch, two niches or squints, and corbels for a vanished rood screen. 

It is not known why the blind arch was added, though this part of the nave certainly required significant buttressing in the late 18th century. The tiny chancel retains an original lancet on its south wall, a priest's door and two-light cusped east window. The tower was added in the 13th century and the square-headed south windows replaced in the 15th. The church was restored first in 1712 at the expense of the vicar, and again in 1889, which saw the present scissor-back roofs installed.

Furnishings are mostly Victorian, though there is a well-preserved Norman pillar piscina in the chancel, as well as a damaged and crudely-carved 14th century tombstone depicting a woman in robes and mediaeval headdress, beneath a heavily cusped arch. On the aisle floor in front of the chancel arch is a memorial  with a bold incised cross, dated 1587 to one Edwardus; South Wales is unusual in the frequency of such post-reformation memorial crosses. In the graveyard are the bases of two mediaeval memorial crosses.

The church retains regular services as part of a combined benefice with Colwinston and Llysworney.

Holy Trinity, Heol-y-Nant, Llandow CF71 7NT

Thursday 3 February 2022

St James, Sussex Gardens

St James sits dramatically at the end of Sussex Gardens, forming the focal point of one of London's most impressive examples of early 19th Century urban planning.

The present church is largely the work of G E Street: it was in fact his last church, the foundation stone being laid two months after his death in 1881. His design incorporated the chancel of an earlier church built in 1841-43, which he turned into a west chapel. The style is mostly late 14th Century, with huge and dramatic east and west windows, the former Decorated and the latter Perpendicular. The most dominant external feature is robust tower from the earlier church, surmounted by a belfry stage and spire. 

The interior conveys an impressive sense of space: the lofty and wide nave is aisled and has a wooden coved roof. The space beneath the tower forms a vast baptistery, framed by a huge west tower arch which provides a counterpoint for the larger but more delicate chancel arch. The chancel has a reredos by James Forsyth, framed by blind arcading filled inlaid coloured marble, the east window filled with glass by Clayton & Bell. The church was badly damaged in World War II, and the west window dates from this rededication. It includes a charming image of a steam locomotive of the Great Western Railway departing from nearby Paddington station.

The church has been associated with a varied group of notable people: Bishop James Hannington preached here before going to Uganda (and his martyrdom); Lord Baden Powell was baptised in the earlier church; Alexander Fleming worshipped here; and Oscar Wilde and Constance Lloyd were married in the newly completed church in 1884.

The church has always had a reputation for social outreach (particularly social housing), as well as vigorous worship in the Anglo-Catholic style with a daily mass and monthly Evensong and Benediction. It is noted for the quality of its church music, and hosts regular concerts.

St James, Sussex gardens, London W2 3UD