St Lawrence Whitchurch, Little Stanmore

This exceptional and well-preserved baroque chapel sits close to the northern edge of London, and is well worth making a journey to see.

There has been a church on the site since Saxon times, but in 1712 James Bridges, later Lord Chandos, acquired the adjacent Canons Park and its house. He rebuilt the house in the latest baroque style, and did pretty much the same to the parish church. Although the 14th century mediaeval tower was retained, the rest was replaced in 1715 by architect John James (1673-1746) with what amounts to a proprietary chapel. 

The classical exterior, in red brick with prominent stone dressings, is restrained, almost severe; a splendid foil for the interior, which can only be described as theatrical. One enters under a large west gallery, which has a grand central box for the Duke and family, with flanking (and smaller) ones for his staff and guards. The view forwards through the unaisled but spectacularly painted nave leads to the sanctuary and retrochoir, with the organ effectively acting as the reredos. This is all framed by a screen which takes the form of a classical proscenium, attributed to Grinling Gibbons.

Every surface is decorated: the ceilings have trompe l'oeil of decorative plasterwork and panels depicting familiar miracles from the Bible, and on the walls there are 'statues' of the virtues and evangelists, all executed in restrained greys. At the east and west ends, more traditional (and colourful) paintings by Antionio Belluci (1654-1726) depict the Nativity and Pieta, with the Adoration of Jehovah above the sanctuary; and on the ceiling of the Duke's box, the Tranfiguration. Either side of the organ are more paintings, of Moses with the Tablets from Mount Sinai and of the Sermon on the Mount. These are said to have come from the house - demolished by the Duke's son to help pay off his debts.

The original furnishings match the setting: a complete set of high box pews, wrought-iron communion rails, the charming classically-shaped font; and the organ (its case also by Gibbons). The Duke's composer in residence in 1716-18 was Handel, and it was on this organ that he composed the Chandos anthems, a number of hymns and the oratorio Esther: one could say the chapel was, in effect, the Duke's personal concert hall - and the acoustics are certainly superb. 

Added onto the north side of the church is the Mausoleum, erected in 1735-6. It is a stunning set-piece in its own right, and was built to house the large classical memorial (again by Grinling Gibbons) to the Duke. He is depicted, larger than life sized, in Roman costume and periwig, flanked by two of his three wives. The walls are painted with yet more trompe l'oeil, which the latest Buildings of England describes as providing 'a pantheon-like setting'. Both it and the ante-room contain impressive memorials to other members of the family.

The church describes itself as inclusive Anglican Catholic, and incorporates both the contemporary and traditional in its worship. It was wonderfully welcoming on my visit. It also serves the nearby Royal National Orthopaedic Hospital in Stanmore. There are also occasional concerts - granting the ability to experience Handel's settings on the instrument (and in the setting) for which they were composed. 

St Lawrence Whitchurch, Whitchurch Lane HA8 6RB