St Lawrence, Caterham

Saint Lawrence is the ancient church of Caterham, dating from the 11th century. Superseded by St Mary's Church on the opposite side of the road in 1866, it's an atmospheric example of a church untouched by the 19th Century, and its archaeology is unusually easy to read in the fabric.

The church was built in 1095, and originally comprised a nave and rounded apse. Of this period, part of a Norman window remains, and the outline of the apse is partly visible outside on the south wall. To this was added in the 13th Century first south and north chapels, then a south and a north aisle, each of two bays. Towards the end of this work, the chancel was extended and a new chancel arch inserted. In the late 18th century the east end of the chancel and the north aisle wall were rebuilt, partly in brick, and the belfry replaced. The porch was added in 1832. 

The south aisle and chapel are long gone, but the outlines of the arches are clearly visible inside and out, as well as the capitals (inside). The north aisle remains, as wide and longer than the nave. The result is a quirky medley of periods: the north aisle arcade is barely pointed, yet the piers alternate, rounded and octagonal: above the central pillar is a rather alarming gargoyle-like head, bearing a fine set of teeth. The roofs look original, and are certainly old. Although most of the plaster is unpainted, there are faint traces of colouring, including two angels - one in each spandrel of the chancel arch. The chancel has the rustic remains of the lower part of a screen, and a rather striking monument to Elizabeth Legrew (d. 1825) by her son, with a kneeling figure in an ogee arch.

The church has a monthly evening service of contemplative music (Iona or Taize) and in the summer is open on Sunday afternoons for tea and cakes, as well as occasional tours, organised by the Guild of Friends of St. Lawrence's Ancient Church. I can vouch for their welcome, and quality of the cakes!

St Lawrence, Church Hill, Caterham CR3 6SA

St Mary the Virgin, Stratfield Saye

St Mary's is very much an estate church, and sits half a mile from the main house in the grounds of the Stratfield Saye estate. This has been the home to the Dukes of Wellington since the estate was purchased by the first Duke in 1817, with funds voted by a grateful Parliament following the Battle of Waterloo. All but the first and sixth Dukes are interred here.

The church was built to replace a mediaeval church in 1754-8 by the first Lord Rivers (the previous owner of Stratfield Saye). Built of red brick on a Greek-Cross plan in a very restrained classical style, it has a shallow, octagonal dome, and a handsome entrance portico or three arches beneath small round windows. The overall effect is strikingly modern, and resembles inter-war Underground station design (and that is a complement).

The interior is more conventionally chapel like, full of box pews painted a blueish-green, but otherwise very plain. The main points of interest are the memorials, the largest being that of Sir William Pitt (d. 1636) and wife, retained from the earlier church (a bold early classical piece with alabaster effigies). This is flanked on one side by a wall monument to the Pitt family dated 1680, and on the other by an impressive piece by John Flaxman for George, Lord Rivers (d. 1803) with two life-size standing figures in Roman attire. 

The memorials to the Dukes of Wellington and other members of the Wellesley family are altogether more modest affairs, and a brass plaque in the north transept records those family members buried in the vault, including Catherine (d. 1831), wife of the first Duke. The alabaster stemmed font is Victorian, in the style of Wren.

The church has a monthly all age service on the first Sunday, except in January and August. Access is via a drive from the Copse, just south of the main estate entrance, through automatic gates.

St Mary the Virgin, Church Road, Stratfield Saye RG7 2DA